Indochina(Laos) - Post No 14: Phonsavan

4 December 2010

The day has come when I separate from the group and continue my Indochina tour on my own. It's filled with apprehension as I met the guys the last time for breakfast before they start their journey back to the border. Can I do this? After a tough Vietnam ride, it did got me thinking, maybe I should head back with the guys and come back up end of the year with Husref. Then again, that would mean not stepping out of my comfort zone and experience it for myself. So stay on it is then....

The bike cuts a lonely figure after the rest left

Decided to stay another day at Phonsavan as I check out the plain of jars and as it's nearby I took my time and went for coffee first. I sit here in a cafe and an American Lao joins me with his nephew and nieces. He asks me the usual questions, where I'm from and bla bla bla then asks me whether I have a girlfriend, for a moment I had my hopes up that when I tell him no he'll introduce me to his nieces........he doesn't.....damn. Cut my steam la.

It's 9.30am and they ordered a really big spread and when I enquired he explains they combine breakfast and lunch and the next meal will be at 4. I hate to break it to him that in other parts of the world it's called brunch, a not entirely new concept.

What i find amazing is that their small chili is really really hot, if you think our cili padi is hot theirs is hotter. I'm not sure where they are on the scoville scale but their chili kicks our chili's ass. Yet these Laotians are eating them like tic tacs. Heck they even dip the chili in chili paste....nuts.

Since I'm on my own, I thought it'd be best to check out the Tourist Information office and get some free maps. This is the first tourist office that I've been to that looks more like an ammunitions dump.

Don't worry, me no touch

This is a serious problem in Laos. UXO or Unexploded Ordinance. There's just so much that was dropped that many lay unexploded, killing or maiming people every year until now. It does hamper development when a simple act of digging a hole can prove to be fatal.

There are organizations dedicated to clearing the country of these UXO and you can do your bit by contributing to them. Though in my opinion since America happily dropped all those shit here, they should come back and pick it up now that the war is over. 

There's a few plain of jars site in Phonsavan with site 1 being the easiest to access and honestly after you've seen one jar, you've seen it all. So plain of jars, check.

Bomb crater

Even here, at a tourist attraction you get constant reminders to walk along paths that's been cleared by MAG (Mines Advisory Group), so you can have an idea of how serious this problem that the people of Laos have to live with.

White=good, Red=bad

It's true that when you travel alone it forces you out of your comfort zone and you start talking to people. Met Rudi an American who's travelling from Phnom Penh on his motorbike. He's doing a cool thing in Cambodia by bringing medicine to villages and treating the sick for free. He currently has 5 villages that he rotates on his rounds. I'm interested to follow him on his rounds in my next trip to Cambodia and see for myself.

Rudi

Ok that's Phonsavan done, oh ya did I tell you it's freaking cold here. Just like Sam Neau it drops to single digit at night. It's a bit of a sleepy cowboy town too, so I'm looking forward to heading up to Luang Prabang as everyone who's been there seem to like it a lot.

Phonsavan at night

Vietnam - A ride reflection

I've been out of Vietnam for a few days and taking it slow and easy in Laos and finally had some time to reflect. It was definitely a sensory overload going through the country and our tight schedule did not help. We've been both lucky and unlucky, had our fair share of run ins with both good and bad people. 

If you were to read reviews in lonely planet and other travel sites, you'll come across plenty of horror stories of rude run-ins and being scammed. Did we experience all this? of course! and then some.

I suppose herein lies the beauty of motorcycle travel. It's not just the wind, everything and i do mean EVERYTHING is in your face. Yes, I could have flown to the cities and back and say that I've been to the War Remnants Museum. Though that would mean missing out and so many little ticks and nuances and the day to day life that you won't get to see otherwise.

I'm not suggesting that it is for everyone, but if you do have a sense of adventure(which deep down, beneath that power suit and tie, or high heels and mascara, i believe we all do) it's something you can consider.

I'm lucky to be a one of the pioneers to ride his own bike into Vietnam and that's an experience many dream about still. It's expected that things would not be perfect, as with any travels, it never is. If you're considering to ride through Vietnam here are my suggestions for a better ride:

1. Forget Hanoi and Saigon: you can always fly there

2. Spend more time at Hoi An, Hue, Na Thrang and Ha Long Bay: Minimum of 2 nites as you do not want to miss out on the attractions.

3. Don't bother with Dalat: it's not worth the effort to get there. You want cold weather? go to Laos

4. Use AH1 only when necessary.

5. Come from Laos and cover the Northern part of Vietnam.

6. Do not ride more than 300km a day.

It was an awesome and most unforgettable experience, made new friends bonded well with some, met people, improve my riding(i hope).

Thank you to everyone involved in making this happen and here's hoping to more trips in the future.

I end this post with the last lines of Desiderata that just encapsulate Vietnam well.

With all its sham, drudgery, and broken dreams,
it is still a beautiful world.
Be cheerful. Strive to be happy.

Indochina(Vietnam/Laos) - Post No 13: Hanoi to Phonsavan 600km

2 December 2010

That's it guys, heading out of Vietnam to cross into Laos. We're heading to Nam Meo border and the roads takes us through the mountains and off the highway. It's nice and peaceful(road still bad of course haha) as there's little to no traffic. The people are different as even though we're a spectacle going through the village they were far more respectful of our space. I wished we had seen more of this side of Vietnam than what we went through. On the way out i told myself I'm never riding here again, yet on the last day I'm thinking "there's still hope for this place".

The roads are small and narrow that on numerous occasions I thought we were lost and after traveling more than 200km we definitely didnt have enough fuel to turn back. Good news is that we are on the right track, bad news.....we're at the wrong border. Our papers say they we were supposed to leave Vietnam at a different border, so that does leave us in a bit of a pickle if we needed to head back out again. 

Welllll, we are in Vietnam after all, so they were just being a real tit about it when you know they just want us to *cough cough* filled in the right "papers". To be honest at that point of time I'm just glad to see the back of Vietnam.

destined for the dinner table : yum yum

Ivan: mobbed by his adoring fans

By this time, we are all fully aware whenever the ride is longer than 500km, there's just no way we would make it before nightfall. Plus we spent about 2 hours just to cross the borders. Bumped into this Belgian couple who bought their kapchais in Saigon and crossing into Laos before dumping the bikes in Thailand. They came after us at the borders and crossed before us. Note to self: next time use kapchai or become Belgian.

Goodbyeeee Vietnam

Hellooooo Lao PDR

Once into Laos, I would have to say it is sooo beautiful. We're going through the mountains and flanked by mountains. Passing by villages children would rush out and wave enthusiastically at us (btw some kids threw stones at us in Vietnam). I'm not even 10 minutes into the country and already I'm planning when to come next.

We stopped at Sam Neau as there's just no way we can make it to Phonsavan. As we're up in the mountains the temperature that night was 4°C, so coupled with the clean air and the quiet atmosphere(for once nobody's honking for no reason) sleep that night was good.

more of these as we make our way through Laos

Fuel Consumption

Nam Meo 196.8km 120,000VND 7.11liters

Indochina(Vietnam) - Post No 13: Hanoi

1 December 2010

This is our last stop. It's a free and easy day before we ride out off Vietnam. Highlight of the day was definitely the visit to Malaysian Embassy followed by lunch at Nisa. I managed to visit the Old Quarter and walked here and there in Hanoi. I actually find this city less hectic than Saigon either that or I could have gotten used to the insanity. 

I'll let the pics do most of the talking this time.

Huge lake in centre of Hanoi

A lot narrow pathways in Old Quarter

Worms...yum yum

Obama was here..

What?! you think only GS can carry things ah?

The Embassy

First Malaysian bikes there I believe

                            

Mix of everything on the road

Pop quiz: Who has right of way?

Tomorrow we leave for Laos

Indochina(Vietnam) - Post No 12: Ha Long Bay to Hanoi 160km

30 November 2010

I think you've heard enough of me bitching about the traffic and road conditions. Even with all the near misses we had, we've made it this far with only Hanoi left on our tour of Vietnam. Naturally you'd have that feeling of "hey, we're gonna make it" and of course wham! that's precisely when something happens.

Leaving Ha Long Bay

I was riding with the group when I felt I was going a bit too fast, so when an intersection came I pulled off to become the marker as a way to slow down, i was joined by Abg Din and we know there's 2 more riders behind us. We waited for a while and Abg Din felt something is wrong as they shouldn't be that far behind, so I called the last man only to hear the dreaded words "aku jatuh"(i fell). 

Abg Din went ahead to assist while I made calls to the front group before heading back as well. So I was riding solo to the scene when a bus decides to overtake a lorry(they just come out whenever they like remember) pushing me to the small lane on the right (it's left hand drive country), as the bus passed i made my way to the left in order to avoid a cyclist, but of course that's the precise moment that he decide to move to the left as well. It all happened so fast as the tip of my handlebar clipped him on the elbows causing a violent slap of the bars as i overcorrected. In my mind I was going "oh god, please don't let me fall", in reality i think i only managed a "oh god" before i'm on my side sliding down the pavement with the bike on top of me.

Passerby's came to assist me to lift the bike as i lay pinned and pushed the bike aside, my thoughts was to move slowly as i try to assess whether i've injured myself but everything seems to be in working order. In the thick of being surrounded by soooo many people who stopped (an accident will do that anywhere in this world) but more here because a big bike was involved, the first question that they asked me was........"how much?"(while pointing to the bike). OhForTheLoveOfGod!!! seriously?!

By this time Mus is trying very hard to B+

I suppose this was the low point on the trip as even though we went as a group when something did happen I was alone and so was the other rider. Help was not immideatly on hand as it took time for some riders to come back. However, it's a testament to how strong these bikes are and highlights the importance of protective gear as we both joined back the group to continue our way to Hanoi.

Nisa - Malaysia restaurant in Hanoi

By the time we reached Hanoi all I wanted to do was to grab a quick dinner and sleep, went to Nisa a Malaysian restaurant....yes i already miss my teh tarik and sambal belacan. Ben, the owner was impressed to hear that we rode all the way from KL and wanted to host lunch for the group the next day. Hey! we're not gonna say no to free food...

*Fuel Consumption
1. Hanoi 181.7km 110,000VND 6.5liters
2. Hanoi 70.2km 50,000VND 3.04liters