Golok to Betong - Don't tell my mother

11 - 13 Feb 2011

Yes....less than a week after coming back from Phi Phi, I am up again, this time towards the restive South of Thailand. There's still ongoing conflict between the predominantly Kelantan speaking Thai Muslim and the Government. Heavy military presence has limited the skirmishes into small pockets though it is definitely still there. Does add to the already heightened  sense of adventure.

It's a pretty big group of 14 bikes and 1 4x4, so there's some sense of safety in numbers, plus I'm on the cheapest bike, so if we do get kidnapped I'm hoping they'll hold the rest for ransom and send me back(small value fry) to inform the family and Government...haha.

Assembled in BHP at 7.30am

Going up Golok

Last fuel stop before crossing into Thailand. I'm pretty chuffed to do a total 370km before refilling in Pkln Hulu.

Rantau Panjang-Golok holds the distinction of being the 4th border that I've crossed into Thailand on my bike, and I just realised that I've not entered into Thailand and cross back to Malaysia via the same border. This trip, go in Golok and come out Betong, last trip enter Wang Kelian and cross back Padang Besar. Though this time abit notti la, didn't declare the bike with customs before entering...haha.

Rantau Panjang

It's been more than 10 years since I was last in Golok and was pleasantly surprised to see the city has not turned into some abandoned cowboy town. I guess it did for a while as there were numerous bombings in 2003/04.

We're in Golok

Golok at night

No tuk tuks here, but plenty of kapchai taxi

The good thing about being in this part of Thailand is that 1. They speak Kelantan, so can (probably) understand em 2. Never worrying where to find halal food.

Rolling out after b'fast

I'm attaching the map though it may not be exact but it'll give you an idea of the route. 

View Larger Map

As this is an exploratory route there we're occasions that we had to double back, but that's all part of the fun. The army checkpoints adds to the thrill. You can see that they have no idea what the hell is going on here when a bunch of big bikes came rolling through. We pretty much went through each and every one without a hitch and amazingly my limited Thai came in handy at these checkpoints. None of the soldiers are local, so you can throw speaking Kelantan out of the window. I just told them where we were from and where we're headed to and that pretty much seals the deal for us. 

Not sure whether the army actually allows it due to sensitivity but being the cam whores that we are, we took the opportunity to snap photos with them and the soldiers happily oblige as well. 

Soldier may be smiling but Capt was actually employing his Jedi death grip handshake to get us through.

Go Betong....stutter stutter...big motorsai....stutter stutter....pls don't hurt us

Me: That's a pretty necklace
Soldier: I think you need a tight slap

Group photo

Some sections of the road are unpaved though it's hardpacked earth so that pretty much is a non issue for our bikes. What I found surprising going through these roads and passing by villages is how life goes on as normal over here. Shops and schools are open as usual, kids are playing by the roadside. It didn't give that uneasy feeling that may accompany in knowing that you're riding through troubled areas. The locals that we met were friendly and helpful and the food was aroi (that's delicious in Thai).

Regardless where you are, kids will always be curious

Kids from a religious school

We tried to go off the beaten track as well by using trail roads, after all that's what a DP bike is for, though as I was to painfully find out, there are limitations to what the bike can do. One of the proposed trail was definitely not suitable for big bikes, it's a steep climb with rocks and deep ruts that just makes it all very tough.

Husref put on knobbies for the occasion 

Didn't look that tough at first

Bike: Allo boss.....kenot la...

Though in order to satisfy our "off roadin" desires, Capt took us through a loop 20km out of Bannang Sata enroute to the 410 to Betong. Though not much of a trail left, I think it was only about 7km compared to when Capt came 3 months ago. Most of the trail is now paved.

This gravel road will disappear soon

Group photo of those crazy people.

We made it to Betong just as night falls, so it's a brilliant 300km ride. Some sections of the road reminded me of the curves in North Thailand, and I definitely missed that. This ride is a good learning experience as not many has done it. I would definitely want to do it again.

Note: 90% of the pics courtesy of Capt. Nik