03 March 2013

2012/2013 Indochina Tour - Day 9 and 10 Siem Reap

It was supposed to be a pretty short ride of 300 kliks from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap but in my case it also proved to be amongst the hardest. Today, after so many days on the road was the day that I felt under the weather. I wasn't having fever or flu but just felt so lethargic. I think it was also made worse by the 30kms of unpaved red earth road coming out of Phnom Penh. I think it took us about an hour just to navigate through this. As this is the main road (main road my ass la), so we're stuck behind traffic a lot and of course besides the diesel fumes that the buses and trucks spew out they also kick up a lot of red dust in their wake.....right into our faces! 

What was it about the joys of being on a motorbike that you're one with your surroundings? Well at that moment I would have punched anyone who said those lines to me la.

Yay!...red earth. Adventure!...Yeah rite!


How many more km la?

Turn left to Siem Reap
It was actually quite bad for me that 100km into the journey I just had to stop for a break. I thought I was low on sugar or something coz I can't even open my eyes. I actually finished a whole tube of Oreos. The Oreo is actually for emergencies but right now this definitely feels like one. Oh ya...I'm also having Coke, so if that does not put me into some sort of sugar overload I don't know what will.

In case of emergency, open tankbag

We pushed on towards Siem Reap but I was still feeling so weak. I am embarrassed to admit now but I was so out of it that on a couple of occasion I dozed off on the bike. It's actually microsleep but really, 1 second is sometimes more than enough to be the difference between being alive or being the other unpleasant alternative.

I failed to inform Husref about this fact but I suppose I was just in denial. I couldn't believe nor understand how I can be so tired on this 300km ride when we've already done a 900km leg with no issues whatsoever. We could and should have stopped more, taken longer breaks, but I felt that if I've taken more breaks I might not be able to continue the ride. That I would call it a day while we're still in the middle of nowhere. Definitely a bad call on my part, one that I've been blessed to get away with this time around.

School kids on bicycles wearing helmets. 
I breathed a sigh of relief as soon as we rolled into Siem Reap sometime in the late afternoon. The only thing on my mind was to look for our guesthouse so that I can collapse properly. Unfortunately, we had to choose 1 that's not on our GPS, so took a little bit of going around the town to finally locate the street. As i've mentioned before, it also helps that the locals do speak pretty decent English so they were quick to point us in the right direction.

For US23 a night it's good value

Very rare for a guesthouse to have a pool
Have you ever taken a long afternoon nap that is only broken by a stomach that's begging for food? You imagine it crawling out of your body, stand next to you, slapping you silly across the face screaming "Feed Me Bitch!". Yes, that's pretty much how I woke up, satisfied from the nap yet ready to eat the mattress.

So 10 minutes and 12 seconds later, we find ourselves in Pub Street, a street that's just lined up with restaurants and bars. Credit to Angkor Wat, Siem Reap receives something like half a million foreign visitors a year, so naturally this is reflected in the kind of offerings that we find in Pub Street. It's a real international affair here so just take your pick.
yum yum!

Amok fish. Love

Yup, we're in the right place

Even the alleyways is worth exploring for more food

The next day, we're off to explore Angkor Wat. The reason why we're in Siem Reap. Through the guesthouse we arranged for a TukTuk to take us there and back. We paid USD10 for this arrangement and considering the fact that you have a personal driver with you for a few hours I think it's awesome value.

Our driver for the day
We paid US10 each for a day pass and 5km later we're standing at the front steps of Angkor Wat with a long stone walkway that crosses the moat into the complex. Now I shall not bore you with the history of Angkor Wat, for it's nothing that you can't Google. All I want to share with you is that it is 800 years old and it's bloody impressive.

I'll say it again, it's 800 years old hokayyyyy!

Let me just put up some pics of the place and you'll see what I mean.

Entrance

That's Angkor from afar



800yrs ago, this is like taller than KLCC

Very intricate



To the me, the place just belies believe. The feat of engineering, the architecture, the creativity, the finesse, the finishing, it's all just amazing considering the age. I mean the huge stones that makes the entrance walkway, you may think nothing of it as you trample it on the way into the temple, but how did they cut it? where did the find enough stones? how did they transport it? These are just square blocks and yet there's so much mystery behind it.

Who really was this brilliant ancient civilization and craftsmen? What happened to the skills? If you see the rest of Cambodia, you'd be amazed that their ancestors possessed the knowledge and skills to build such a wonderful and fine complex.

It is said the construction took 300,000 men and 6,000 elephants to build. It's mind boggling to think about maneuvering this, to house them, feed them.

Besides Angkor Wat, we were lucky to have just enough time to head out to Angkor Bayon, well known for it's numerous massive stone faces. 

Lara Croft....is that you?




The Guardian of Bayon

Same?
The one day experience of exploring Siem Reap has convinced me to head out there again. I would love to check out the complex from a hot air ballon or even a heli if given the chance. Spend more time exploring the complex maybe with a guide as well. The place has definitely left and impression on me. 

There's also the Tonle Sap floating village nearby that we didn't get to checkout this time around. It's worth it to fly out there next time and spend 4 to 5 days of exploring the place.

We are going to cross into Laos the next day, so in the mean time I shall leave you with more pics of Angkor Wat and of course, the girls! You think I would forget about them? hahaha no chance!









05 February 2013

2012/2013 Indochina Tour - Day 8 (Phnom Penh part2)

tuk tuk sir, tuk tuk sir, tuk tuk sir, tuk tuk sir, tuk tuk sir!

ok when in Phnom Penh be prepared to be assaulted by these lines a gajillion trillion times. As soon as you step out of a hotel or restaurant there'll be at least half a dozen of em asking whether you want a tuk tuk. And get this, if you say no to one the other 5 will still ask you. I mean like halloooo....if I said no to your friend what makes you think I'd say yes to you la? But it's A for effort all round. Also, they'll try to cross sell or up sell when you say no. So these are the exact sequence of their salesmanship.

TukTukGuy: You want Tuk tuk?
Us: No
TukYukGuy: You want girl? I bring you to college girl (we're pretty sure she was in college in 1969)
Us: No
TukTukGuy: You want girl massage? (oblivious to the fact that I'm standing in front of a massage place)
Us: No
TukTukGuy: You want weed?
Us: No

And the above would be on repeat with almost every TukTuk driver that you encounter. They'll even shout at you from across a busy street...YOU WANT GIRLLLLLL?!!! Ah yes...that'll make me hop into your TukTuk after you've announced my evil and nefarious intentions to the whole world....haha.

Where's the girl man?
Having said that, the TukTuk is a convenient way to move around in PP. You pay USD3 per trip, I'm pretty sure you can get away with USD2 if you bargained but we didn't really bother. By the way, it's USD3 per trip regardless of where you're going in the city, which is cool. So it's nice to ditch the bike and just have these boys drive you around.

This is where I began to notice something about PP traffic. Now it's a busy city for sure, with lots of cars, bikes. TukTuks sharing the road making it congested and they also have what appears to be little regard for traffic laws, hitting the red, going wrong way on a one way street, going in even when the intersection is clogged up. Behaviors that would generally and definitely get you beaten up in KL, yet you don't see any of that in PP. The level of tolerance they have with regards to traffic is incredible, and you see the guy in the brand new Range Rover chilling when a kapchai is blocking his way even when the kapchai is in the wrong. It's amazing to see this order in chaos playing out in front of your eyes.

We'll show em boys how it's REALLY done!
Since we don't have that long in PP we just managed to checkout Russian Market (which I must say is a disappointment). I was expecting more Russian made stuff like watches, knives and military paraphernalia but saw none of those. And they close bloody early, at 5pm close shop. Huh? what's that all about la. So if anyone is going there do go early.

As usual...I'm taking a picture of those lovely shorts behind the girl

Russian market

Russian market
We also managed to find a mosque across the famous riverside. Our rationale is simple, if there's a mosque there's bound to be halal food. True enough, the roadside stall was selling this grilled beef in a baguette that was just so tasty that we ordered another helping of it.

Family owned business

Initially they thought we were Khmer as well

Delicious!
 
The other dish that I discovered was the Amok Fish. Initially with the word amok in the dish I would have thought it's something fierce and spicy but it turns out to be on the contrary. It's a little bit like our otak-otak but smoother in taste and very delicious as well. I'd go back for this dish anytime.

We're off to Siem Reap tomorrow so I'll just leave you with some pics taken around the city.

Hey where's your helmet boys....ehem ehem

Nice car....ehem ehem


Riverside


A Goldwing with sidecar

TukTuk sir?!







25 January 2013

2012/2013 Indochina Tour - Day 8 (Phnom Penh part 1)

Phnom Penh. Well unlike the last time where I kinda breezed through the place, we have a couple of days to spare in this city.

We're staying at Salita Hotel and for US25/night it's actually very decent. It's only a few months old when we got there so it's still clean and fresh. There's no underground parking for the bikes but we're happy enough with the 24hr security provided.

Malaysia......you welcome also!

Our security.....good enough.
One thing about Cambodia is that the people are pretty proficient in English, which is a great relief but it also worked against me in the sense that I didn't bother to pick up basic Khmer other than "Akun" which means thank you. Usually I'd make an effort to at least ask "where is the toilet?"(very important hokayyyy) in the local language, but this time around even this I failed.

We found the city to be quite easy to navigate as it's made up of square blocks with the "happening" riverside to the East as your marker. It is also a flat city, coz just as with the previous hotel I stayed in, the hotel's restaurant is on the top floor, which in Salita's case, is on the 10th. Just look at the pictures and you have an idea of how flat the city is.

10th floor where you get a bird's eyeview of the city

Pretty flat I'd say
You would think Husref is taking my picture right?

Well think again
Though the hotel is a little bit far from the riverside it is actually near to Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum or S21. I think it was just 500 metres so we walked there. It's my first time there and after that visit, I can safely say it's my last. The sun was shining and this being a former school it is both open and airy, yet with what transpired here through Cambodia's dark Khmer Rouge rule the place gave out a grisly unnerving chill.



What you see on the left is the gallow where prisoners were tortured and hanged

This fella wouldn't last 5 minutes back then.

Chum Mey...1 of the 7 known survivors of S21

Add caption
It is disturbing to be looking at rows and rows of photographs of inmates knowing very well that those eyes staring back at you met with a terrible and gruesome end, even kids are not spared. I'm just glad that they did not display pictures of those being tortured. I'm not generally squeamish but I don't think I'll be able to hack it if it is too much in your face. I'm left to my imaginings and in it I softened the blow by conjuring a less painful and traumatic end to the eyes that are looking back at me.

I ask myself, how is it possible for someone to torture and kill their fellow man (woman and child) en masse, just because you don't share the same idelogy, or religion, or ethnic group. It is silly, it is stupid and you would think that places such as S21 serves as a stark reminder of what can happen when you allow emotions and fear to rule. I can't help to be reminded by what is happening in our current political scene where the race card is being played by both sides much to the detriment of the greater good.

I left Toul Sleng feeling empty and drained and not recalling the steps back to the hotel, for all I wanted to do is to wash this feeling off and fully clothed, I stood under the showers.

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